- To set out the first course place a brick at each end/ corner on a generous bed of mortar, check that they are placed the correct distance apart, square if it\'s a building and horizontally level to each other. Level by using a laser level, a line string level (very small light level that hangs on the stretched line) or a straight edge long enough to rest on the ends with a standard builders level on top. Stretch a line using your Masons Mate between the ends, place the first bed of mortar freehand using your trowel, use the vertical guide to place the mortar between the bricks and lay the line of bricks, top edge set 1mm back from your stretched line. (Setting out is clearly illustrated on our build it DVD).
   - After the 1st course is laid out use the horizontal bricky guide, scraping the mortar into the channel as you slide it along. Place 2 bricks at each end of the wall pressing them into the mortar beds to secure a firm bond. One every course as you lay the end/ corner brick level to ensure vertical alignment. Place the string line and lay the line of bricks. Note -Brick sizes can vary, if upon placing the last brick on a course the joint is too tight or too wide remove 2 or 3 back and space the joints evenly however don\'t get too fussy about this, if you look closely at any brickwork you'll find slight variation in the joint spaces.
Detail shows joints are:
- Uniformly spaced
- Pointed to perfection
- Every 4 hours as your mortar has started to set go back over your work and strike the joints using the the Pro-pointer to get a perfect pointed finish.
Using Bricky at corners ...
- The lug underneath touches against the corner brick ensuring that the mortar bed finishes perfectly at the corner.
- As you proceed around the corner the lug at the back ensures perfect positioning of the Bricky.
- Proceed along the wall
Blockwork
- Use the trowel to press mortar into the central channel then scrape across to level off. Note the perfect bed of mortar with absolutely no mess!
- Plaster in the vertical joint
- Press the block into both the horizontal and the vertical bed of mortar to secure
a firm bond.
Block on flat / Double brick wall
Unscrew 2 of the steel lugs on the wide side of the tool and use it to lay that perfect bed of mortar on half of the course. Place on the other half of the mortar bed freehand (using your trowel) or get a 12mm thick piece of timber about 1m long x 100mm wide and put a nail through it near each end, 6mm in off the edge as illustrated.
Tips
- Calculate your wall dimensions to full or half sized bricks/blocks. This avoids unnecessary cutting.
- The natural colour of mortar can look quite bland. It\'s common for brick walls in particular to add some mortar dye in the mix to enhances the appearance. (I prefer black but use just half the recommended amount, this leaves a grey joint as opposed to black).
- Ensure bricks are not dried out. Spray them with water if necessary but leave to surface dry before placement. (Dried out bricks absorb the moisture from the mortar, this then forces the mortar to set too quickly and prevent it gaining full strength.)
- Lay out brick heaps and spot boards every 2 meters apart to have mortar and bricks under your nose at all times.
- Keep your tools reasonably clean as you work and clean well at the end of each day a rag to hand is quite useful.
- Do not point your joints until the mortar has started to set. (1-4 hours after placement). The half hour before lunch and end of the day is when a bricklayer comes back to point up their work.
- A round nose gauging trowel (as supplied) works best when building with your bricky.
- Use the light durable skin tight rubber brick laying gloves as the mortar may pierce your skin especially if your working for prolonged periods.
- Laying brick/blocks is physical work but instead of crying from the pain think of what you'll achieve and how fit your getting in the process beats spending time/money in the gym.
- Visit our website www.bricky.com frequently to keep up-to-date with the latest innovative building tools.
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